Author |
Page 1 |
Buzzkill
Joined 26/09/09 Last Visit 28/07/11 49 Posts
|
Posted on 03 February 2010 at 04:05:09 GMT What is the preferred method for basing your hills, trees, etc.? I have used plywood and MDF in the past but the wood warped and the MDF could be fiddly (fraying when cut). Any other materials used for basing terrain? |
doctorphalanx
Joined 06/06/07 Last Visit 26/05/12 6 Posts
|
Posted on 03 February 2010 at 07:15:56 GMT I've used large plastic game counters for trees, also magnetic 1p and 2p UK coins. Other scenery I avoid basing. |
stenicplus
Joined 05/06/07 Last Visit 24/05/22 483 Posts
|
Posted on 03 February 2010 at 09:51:53 GMT If cutting you own MDF using hand tools I've found cellotape stuck over the cutting line stops the edges fraying as bad. Larger workshop power tools don't tend to fray the edges as they are so much better of course, if you have access to them? Steve P |
big dave
Joined 10/05/07 Last Visit 17/11/16 937 Posts
|
Posted on 03 February 2010 at 09:53:30 GMT Plasticard. |
DeusIrae
Joined 28/05/04 Last Visit 27/02/11 148 Posts
|
Posted on 03 February 2010 at 16:55:27 GMT Plasticard, too... |
DavetheLost
Joined 02/02/10 Last Visit 12/05/15 21 Posts
|
Posted on 03 February 2010 at 21:31:39 GMT Plasticard for me as well. When they were still in every post office for free I used a lot of AOL trial cd-roms. |
Buzzkill
Joined 26/09/09 Last Visit 28/07/11 49 Posts
|
Posted on 04 February 2010 at 00:39:42 GMT I though about CD's too, just I dont want terrain feature to be round. What about foamcore? Will that warp? I have heard about gatorboard which is supposed to be the cats meow, but it is expensive. I am looking to go a little cheaper. |
VonTed
Joined 21/10/08 Last Visit 04/10/15 196 Posts
|
Posted on 04 February 2010 at 12:54:14 GMT plasticard.... depending on size you can go super cheap. I helped myself to a handful of samples for house siding from Lowes. They are about 2x4 inches in various colors, i have not tried to cut any yet - but are a good size to place a few 6mm houses on with detailing (walls, trees, etc...) |
angelbarracks
Joined 22/02/09 Last Visit 21/09/12 296 Posts
|
Posted on 04 February 2010 at 16:31:36 GMT 2mm platicard. |
angelbarracks
Joined 22/02/09 Last Visit 21/09/12 296 Posts
|
Posted on 04 February 2010 at 16:31:43 GMT with an S |
stenicplus
Joined 05/06/07 Last Visit 24/05/22 483 Posts
|
Posted on 04 February 2010 at 18:43:48 GMT One other option is hard mousemats. Shedman had a stock ages ago and we've both used them. For mine I sanded the top to key the surface so PVA would stick for flocking and painting whilst Shedman's used the plastikote flecked spray paint to good effect. Hard to make them circular but easy to score and make smaller rectangles. Steve P |
cdingley
Joined 14/06/07 Last Visit 11/04/16 3 Posts
|
Posted on 09 February 2010 at 16:05:07 GMT I've been using the black foamboard (Gatorboard, I guess it's called), and that works pretty well. I get a tiny bit of warpage, but not much. I try to limit the size of the piece of terrain, so that may be a contributing factor. The bigger the piece, the more warpage you'll get. However, a couple of years ago, I glued 6mm white foamboard to a 2mm sheet of plastic to make a foundation for a large-ish terrain piece, and to this day there is zero warpage on that thing. It's as flat as a ruler. I think I may use that method in the future. |
Buzzkill
Joined 26/09/09 Last Visit 28/07/11 49 Posts
|
Posted on 13 February 2010 at 16:59:16 GMT What is the recommended thickness for Plasticard (Sheet Styrene on this side of the pond)? I picked up some .040 and it seemed thick enough while still being easy to cut, but after gluing trees and then coating the whole thing with Vallejo pumice it seems to be warping a little bit. It is not dry yet, so I don't have the final analysis, just curious what thickness others are using for terrain basing? |
Gun-Pit Paul
Joined 10/02/08 Last Visit 29/01/19 170 Posts
|
Posted on 14 February 2010 at 10:53:23 GMT Not sure about this; but if it is warping, just paint the other side. Might help. Paul |
stenicplus
Joined 05/06/07 Last Visit 24/05/22 483 Posts
|
Posted on 14 February 2010 at 16:30:39 GMT Very thin plasticard can warp badly. Depends upon your glue and paint content. For plasticard I'd use 0.6mm to 1mm at least although recently I've started using 2mm mdf for anything 15mm scale or larger. |
angelbarracks
Joined 22/02/09 Last Visit 21/09/12 296 Posts
|
Posted on 14 May 2010 at 12:12:07 GMT my 2mm plasticard stuff lasted years so far and no warping... |
TonyO_AU
Joined 18/02/10 Last Visit 27/08/10 49 Posts
|
Posted on 14 May 2010 at 16:30:27 GMT For moveable terrain I use MDF. For the 6 mm I have used the 50mm blue insulation foam so it does not need a backing. I stick the trees to the base and use little transparent stands for the units to sit on when they are in BUAs or wooded areas |
punkskum
Joined 19/09/09 Last Visit 04/01/16 129 Posts
|
Posted on 18 May 2010 at 16:15:18 GMT WOW! Your terrain must be really fantastic looking... Mine consists of pieces of green felt cut in various shapes and sizes which I place down to represent wooded areas, then on top of that I have about 100 10mm trees I've based on little cardboard squares which I've painted green so I then place them on the felt and there's your wood About a fiver for all the modular woods I'll ever, ever need! Also there's a few feet of printed cardboard walls I've cut to about 10mm wide and bent down the length (making them 5mm high) which are then placed on green cardboard strips to represent walls. These look really good, actually (the walls are commercially available sections of walling which comes in A4 sheets so it's a great investment for roofs, walls, stone bridges etc...) These vary in length from 2.5 to 10cm long so I can make walls around buildings, running alongside roads etc.... Roads are based on cardboard, too. You'll be surprised once stretched out how much cardboard is actually inside boxes of corn flakes! Buildings aren't based but placed over rectangular gray cardboard sections. All the terrain is modular and it's all really cheap to make and totally modular. Also, you can use the cardboard to test your designs before doing them up with plasticard, which in Australia at least given the postage is quite expensive. S. |
TonyO_AU
Joined 18/02/10 Last Visit 27/08/10 49 Posts
|
Posted on 19 May 2010 at 13:44:39 GMT |
TonyO_AU
Joined 18/02/10 Last Visit 27/08/10 49 Posts
|
Posted on 19 May 2010 at 13:46:19 GMT |
bokaso1
Joined 29/04/10 Last Visit 29/03/12 101 Posts
|
Posted on 21 May 2010 at 01:30:09 GMT This is a very impressive ..... Pretty nice ground for WG .... |
TonyO_AU
Joined 18/02/10 Last Visit 27/08/10 49 Posts
|
Posted on 21 May 2010 at 16:15:19 GMT Thanks - it is probably to 10 time I have tried to build this sort of terrain and first I have been happy with |
big dave
Joined 10/05/07 Last Visit 17/11/16 937 Posts
|
Posted on 21 May 2010 at 19:09:51 GMT Plasticard |
Page 1 |